Bringing a new dog home and want to get training right from day one? Good news: you don't need a cupboard full of gadgets. You need a few well-chosen basics, a bit of knowledge, and consistency.
To start training your dog, you really only need: tasty treats your dog loves, a comfortable well-fitting collar or harness with a lead, a quiet space free from distractions, and patience and consistency. A clicker is a useful (but optional) extra. Everything else (special mats, expensive toys, advanced equipment) can wait until you know what your dog actually needs. Most importantly, training works best in short, positive sessions of five to ten minutes, several times a day, rather than one long session.
Let's talk through why each of these matters, what's genuinely worth buying, and where you can safely save your money.
The essential kit: what you really need
Treats your dog is excited about
Reward-based training is the approach recommended by every major UK welfare and behaviour organisation, including the RSPCA and the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT). Your dog needs a reason to repeat a behaviour, and for most dogs, food is the quickest and clearest way to communicate "yes, that's right."
Look for something:
- Small enough to eat in one or two bites (you don't want your dog stopping to chew for ten seconds mid-session)
- Soft, so there's no crunching delay
- Genuinely exciting to your dog — this might mean saving your dog's usual kibble for calm moments and reserving something higher-value, like cooked chicken or a specific training treat, for harder tasks
You don't need to buy an expensive bag of "premium" training treats to get started. Plenty of owners simply use small pieces of their dog's normal food, topped up with something a bit more special for tricky exercises. Our Dog Training Treats range covers both budget everyday options and higher-value treats for when you need extra motivation.
A well-fitting collar or harness, and a lead
You'll need something to attach a lead to for loose-lead walking, recall practice, and general safety. A standard 1.5–2m lead is far more useful for training than a retractable one — it's harder to teach loose-lead walking on a line that's constantly extending and retracting.
For the collar-versus-harness question, and how to get the fit right, we've covered that properly in Choosing the Right Collar or Harness for Your Dog — no need to repeat it here, but the short version is: most trainers now recommend a well-fitted harness as the default for training, especially for puppies.
A quiet space with minimal distractions
This costs nothing, but it's arguably the most important item on the list. Dogs learn new behaviours fastest in low-distraction environments. A hallway, spare room, or quiet garden works far better for teaching a brand-new skill than a busy park.
Once your dog reliably knows a command in a calm setting, you gradually add distractions — this is called "proofing" a behaviour, and it's one of the most commonly skipped steps (more on that below).
Patience, consistency, and a little bit of knowledge
You can't buy this in-store, but it matters more than anything on this list. Short, frequent sessions (five to ten minutes, two or three times a day) beat one long weekly session every time.
This article focuses on the kit and mindset you need before you begin. For the actual commands worth teaching first, and in what order, see Puppy Training Basics
Optional but genuinely useful extras
These aren't essential, but they solve real problems for a lot of owners.
| Item | What it's for | Worth it if... | Skip it if... |
|---|---|---|---|
| Clicker | Marks the exact moment your dog does the right thing, more precisely than a verbal "yes" | You want extra precision, especially for tricks or complex behaviours | You're happy using a marker word — it works just as well once your timing is good |
| Treat pouch | Keeps treats accessible and your hands free | You're doing regular walks-and-training combined | You're training mostly indoors near a treat tub |
| Long training line (5–10m) | Lets you practise recall safely at a distance | You're working on recall in open spaces | Your dog already has reliable recall or you only train indoors |
| Interactive/puzzle toy | Builds focus and problem-solving, useful for mental stimulation | Your dog needs enrichment alongside training | Your dog is easily frustrated by puzzles — start simple |
| Enclosed training pouch/mat | Marks a "start point" for training sessions | You like a consistent routine cue | Not necessary for most dogs |
None of these replace the basics above — think of them as refinements once you know your dog's learning style.
Initial and ongoing costs: what to realistically budget
Training itself doesn't have to be expensive. Here's a realistic breakdown for a new dog owner.
Initial setup costs
| Item | Budget option | Mid-range | Premium |
|---|---|---|---|
| Collar & ID tag | £5–£10 | £10–£20 | £20–£35 |
| Harness | £8–£15 | £15–£30 | £30–£60 |
| Lead | £5–£10 | £10–£20 | £20–£40 |
| Training treats (starter bag) | £2–£4 | £4–£8 | £8–£15 |
| Clicker (optional) | £1–£3 | — | — |
| Treat pouch (optional) | £5–£10 | £10–£20 | £20–£30 |
Realistic total to get started properly: around £20–£40 for the true essentials, or £40–£90 if you add the optional extras.
Ongoing costs
- Training treats: roughly £5–£15 a month depending on your dog's size and how often you train
- Group training classes: typically £8–£15 per session, or £60–£120 for a 6–8 week puppy course
- 1-to-1 training/behaviourist sessions: £40–£90 per session if needed for specific issues
Where you can genuinely save money
- Use your dog's regular kibble as training treats for easy exercises, saving higher-value treats for harder ones
- A basic well-fitted harness from a reputable retailer works just as well as a premium one for most dogs — you're paying for durability and design, not effectiveness
- Group classes are usually far more affordable than 1-to-1 sessions and are perfectly adequate for general obedience and socialisation
Where it isn't worth cutting corners: correct harness fit, and professional help for specific behavioural issues like fear, reactivity or aggression. A cheap harness that rubs, or delaying help for a growing behaviour problem, tends to cost more in the long run — in vet bills, in welfare, or in a harder road back later.
Do I need to go to formal training classes?
Not necessarily to teach the basics — sit, stay, recall, loose-lead walking can all be taught at home with the kit above. However, classes offer something home training can't easily replicate: controlled socialisation with other dogs and people, alongside professional feedback on your technique.
We'd suggest classes are genuinely worth it if:
- You have a new puppy and want structured socialisation
- Your dog struggles specifically around distractions or other dogs
- You're finding it hard to read your dog's body language or timing
Look for trainers accredited by the Animal Behaviour and Training Council (ABTC), which vets trainers against recognised standards of reward-based, welfare-focused methods. Ask any trainer directly what methods they use — reputable modern trainers will happily explain and will avoid punishment-based techniques.
Common mistakes new trainers make
- Training sessions that go on too long. Ten minutes of focused training beats forty minutes of a tired, distracted dog.
- Skipping the "proofing" stage. A dog who sits perfectly in the kitchen may not sit at all at the park — this isn't disobedience, it's a genuinely different context to the dog.
- Inconsistent commands. If one household member says "down" and another says "lie down," you're teaching two different cues by accident.
- Training when the dog is hungry, over-excited, or overtired. All three make learning much harder.
- Punishing "failure." A dog that doesn't respond usually hasn't understood or been set up to succeed yet — going back a step is far more effective than repeating a correction.
Myths and misconceptions worth clearing up
"You need to be the dominant one" / "alpha rolling" This idea is based on outdated wolf-pack research that has since been widely discredited even by the researcher who originally proposed it. Modern, evidence-based training focuses on clear communication and reward, not dominance.
"Older dogs can't learn new things" Not true. Older dogs can absolutely learn new commands — it may simply take a little more repetition and patience than with a puppy.
"Treats are bribery" Used correctly, treats are a reward for behaviour already offered, not a lure held in front of the nose forever. As a dog becomes reliable, treats are gradually phased to intermittent rewards rather than removed altogether.
"My dog is too food-motivated / not food-motivated enough to train with treats" Every dog has something they value — for some it's food, for others it's a favourite toy, play, or praise. If food isn't working, it's worth trying a different reward type rather than assuming training won't work at all.
Welfare considerations
Good training isn't just about teaching commands — it's about your dog's wellbeing throughout the process.
- Watch for stress signals, such as lip licking, yawning outside of tiredness, whale eye (showing the whites of the eyes), or trying to move away. These suggest a session needs to be shorter, easier, or paused.
- Never use fear or pain-based methods. Beyond welfare concerns, these are linked to increased aggression and anxiety in dogs long-term, according to research reviewed by the RSPCA.
- Match training to your dog's needs. A nervous rescue dog and a confident young puppy need very different pacing.
- Ensure your dog's basic needs are met first — a hungry, undertired or overtired, or unwell dog cannot learn effectively regardless of technique.
When should I contact a vet?
Training struggles can sometimes have a medical root, not a behavioural one. It's worth speaking to your vet if you notice:
- Sudden changes in behaviour or a previously well-behaved dog becoming difficult to train
- Signs of pain, such as reluctance to sit, lie down, or move in certain ways
- Noticeable hearing or sight changes (not responding to cues they previously knew)
- Increased anxiety, obsessive behaviours, or aggression that appears out of character
- Any concerns about your dog's general health alongside training difficulties
This article is general guidance and isn't a substitute for professional veterinary advice. If in doubt, always speak to your vet — they can rule out or address any underlying medical cause before training is adjusted.
Can I train my dog without treats?
Yes — toys, play, and praise can all work as rewards, particularly for dogs who are more toy- or play-motivated than food-motivated. The key is finding what your individual dog values enough to work for.
2. How long does it take to train a dog?
Basic commands are often learnt within a few days to a couple of weeks of short daily sessions, but reliability in real-world, distracting situations typically takes several months of consistent practice. Behavioural issues, such as reactivity, can take considerably longer and often benefit from professional support.
3. Do I need different equipment for puppy training versus adult dog training?
The core kit is the same. Puppies may benefit from a lightweight, adjustable harness to accommodate growth, and softer, smaller treats suited to young teeth and stomachs, but the fundamental approach doesn't change with age.
4. Do you offer advice on pet care?
Absolutely. Our team is trained and experienced in many areas of pet care. Whether you need help choosing the right food or setting up a habitat, we’re always happy to assist.
5.Is it too late to train an older or rescue dog?
No. Training is beneficial at any age, though rescue dogs in particular may need extra patience while they settle in and build trust. If your rescue dog shows signs of fear or anxiety, it's worth asking a qualified, ABTC-accredited trainer for tailored guidance rather than following generic advice.
Conclusion
You don't need much to start training your dog well: a collar or harness and lead, treats your dog genuinely likes, a quiet space, and consistent short sessions. Everything else is a helpful extra, not a requirement.
If you're ready to get kitted out, our team at Smith's Pets is always happy to help you choose the right harness fit or talk through treat options in-store — no pressure, no upselling, just honest advice. You might also find our Dog Training Hub useful for the next steps once the basics are in place, covering everything from recall to lead-walking troubleshooting.
